Posts Tagged With: China

How to plan a trip to Tibet

Planning a trip to Tibet isn’t easy. Firstly, it’s extremely remote and difficult to get to. Secondly, the Chinese authorities seem to want to make it as hard as possible for foreign tourists to visit. This is presumably because the foreign tourists might discover for themselves just how “peaceful” China’s “liberation” of Tibet has been. Therefore, it’s unsurprising that planning our trip to Tibet took far longer and gave me far more headaches than any of my previous trips. With that in mind, I’ve put together this planning guide for anyone who is thinking of going to Tibet.

Step 1: Find a reputable Tour Agency

Independent travel to Tibet is impossible. You need a permit to enter the region and a guide with you, to allow you to get into all the main tourist sites. You might be able to visit the shops in Lhasa by yourself but that’s about it. Therefore, the first step is to find a travel agency. There are Chinese run agencies and Tibetan run agencies. Decide which you would rather give your money to. We wanted a Tibetan agency and were put in touch with Snow Lion Tours, by Lobsang from the excellent Land of Snows website.

Step 2: Decide where you want to go and who with

If you are a solo traveller, the best thing to do would be to join a group. This does obviously mean that you don’t have 100% control over your dates. Due to our holiday times, Janey and I could only go in December, which is the quietest time of the year for foreign tourists. Consequently, joining a group was never likely. It would have been possible for the two of us to form our own group but it would also have been prohibitively expensive. It was after I discovered this that I started my sales pitch to my old colleague Tyrone. He was looking for somewhere adventurous to go in his December holiday period and was instantly captivated by the idea. Successfully persuading him and Virginia made the whole trip financially feasible, as well as provided us with excellent company.


Step 3: Book your flights in and out of China

After making your booking with the tour agency, you need to get a Tibet travel permit to allow you to get into the Tibetan Autonomous Region. Before getting this though, you need to have your Chinese visa. To get a Chinese visa, you first need to book your flights in and out of China. You could also choose to book your flights / train tickets in and out of Lhasa at this stage. I decided to wait until my visa had been officially approved though.

Step 4: Apply for your Chinese visa

There are many different types of visa for China. At the time of our visit, we needed a single entry L class visa. Carefully check which one you need before you start your application. On the form you’ll be asked to state your itinerary in China. DO NOT SAY THAT YOU’RE GOING TO TIBET. This is a trick that the Chinese authorities play. If you put Tibet on your itinerary, they’ll say that you need a Tibetan permit and decline your visa. Paradoxically, you need a visa to get a Tibetan permit. Therefore, you need to “invent” an itinerary. Do study a map of China and make sure your route is convincing though! For example, our itinerary was BEIJING – CHENGDU – CHONGQING – SHANGHAI – XI’AN.

China Map

We really were flying into Beijing and out of Xi’an so this was pretty realistic. You’ll also need to have your first night of accommodation booked and to provide proof of this. Hypothetically, you could just book something and cancel it at a later date. You just need it for the visa application. To get the visa, you usually need to go to the Chinese embassy and return to pick up your passport a couple of days later. If you don’t live in a city where an embassy is located, you could do what we did and get a local travel agency to sort it out. We used an agency called SAS Travel in Penang. They obviously charged a mark-up but they had the passports back with us within a week.

Step 5: Get your Tibet travel permit

Once you have your visas, send scanned copies of them to your agency, who can then start the application for the Tibet travel permit. This is usually done a month before your intended travel date and takes a couple of weeks to process. Once they have been issued, the agency will post them to your hotel in the city that you’re staying in before your flight to Lhasa. In our case this was Chengdu.

Step 6: Start your journey!

Once you’ve done all of the above, you’re ready to go! Be prepared for one or two little hiccups on the way though. When I arrived at Beijing airport my passport seemed to trigger some sort of alarm. There was a lot of calling supervisors over and making phone calls but eventually they realised that everything was legitimate (apart from the fake itinerary, which I could reasonably claim to have changed) and let me through. At Chengdu airport, we just had to show our permits and we were allowed through to begin our journey to Lhasa.

Now that I’ve gone through the process of organising a semi-independent trip to Tibet, I’m going to try to answer some FAQs about travelling in the Land of Snows

1) Should I or shouldn’t I go to Tibet?

There are obviously powerful arguments against going to Tibet. The Tibetans are an oppressed people and by going there you risk legitimising the Chinese occupation. However, Free Tibet and the Dalai Lama himself, both actively encourage people to to go to Tibet to see it for themselves and make their own minds up. Having been there, I obviously share the latter viewpoint.

2) What is the best time of year to visit?

 It depends. If you want the warmest weather, then go in the summer months between May to September. Bear in mind though that this is the time when “domestic” Chinese tourists flood into Tibet in droves and many of them are not particularly respectful towards Tibetan culture. If you can handle the cold, then December is a great time to visit as the skies are crystal clear and thousands of Tibetan pilgrims descend upon Lhasa, which makes for a great spectacle.

3) What is the best way to get there?

You can fly to Lhasa from a number of cities in China, including Beijing, Chengdu, Kunming and Shanghai. Alternatively, Tibet is now even more firmly linked to China by the railway line which runs from Xining to Lhasa. You can connect to this train line from other cities all round China. Bank on at least 24 hours on the train. If you want to have both experiences, you could do as we did and fly in, then take the train out or vice-versa.20151226_112528

4) Which languages are spoken in Tibet?

Tibetan and Mandarin and that’s about it. You will find extremely little English spoken, even in Lhasa. This is another reason why having a tour guide is a great idea.

5) How much do things cost in Tibet?

Food is inexpensive and, presuming breakfast is included in your tour cost, you can get by on around 50-100 Yuan per day. Entrance to temples usually costs between 50-100 Yuan. The most expensive entry fee we paid was 180 Yuan to the Qomolangma (Everest) National Park. Haggling is accepted but vendors bargain hard and aggressively.

6)Will I get the chance to meet real Tibetan people?

The Chinese rule Tibet with an iron fist but this is one thing that they are more or less powerless to prevent. If you book with a Tibetan travel agency, you’ll stay in Tibetan run hotels and eat in local restaurants, meeting local people in the process. Conversation will obviously be pretty limited but it will still be rewarding.

7) What’s Tibetan food like?

Hit and miss. In Lhasa we had some great meals, particularly hearty stews and curries. Once you get out of Lhasa though, the standard drops drastically. Most meals are incredibly carb heavy with hardly any meat or vegetables on the plate. You’ll also get incredibly sick of eating noodle soup every day. And I really love noodle soup!20151226_143158

8) Is Yak butter milk tea as bad as it sounds?

Most definitely. If anything, it’s even worse than it sounds. However, if you’re lucky enough to get invited into a Tibetan house or monastery you won’t be able to refuse it! The trick is to smile politely and drink in tiny little sips as your cup will be constantly refilled otherwise.


For more detailed information about everything to do with Tibet, go to



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Spending Christmas with the Pandas in Chengdu

It’s easy to be overwhelmed by choice when researching a trip to China. There are sprawling megacities, soaring mountains, arid deserts and ancient ruins. Where does one start? Clearly, we were always going to Beijing and Hong Kong. Janey spent ten years working as an archaeologist so a visit to Xi’an to see the fabled Terracotta Warriors was also essential. Other than these three places, my attention kept getting drawn to Sichuan province. Why Sichuan? Well, the scenery looked stunning for a start. It was also reputedly home to one of the best, and spiciest, regional cuisines in China. Most of all though, it was about pandas. Sichuan is the best place in China to see one of my very favourite animals. Going to China and not seeing them would have been unthinkable, like not drinking beer in Germany or missing Macchu Pacchu in Peru. We had to go to Sichuan.

Sichuan Map
On December 23rd 2015, we boarded a domestic flight from Beijing to Chengdu, the capital city of Sichuan province. It was one of the more traumatic flights I’ve experienced. Honestly, I’ve got no idea how the man in front of us could spend an entire three hour flight hawking up phlegm. This is exactly what happened though. As it was an evening departure from Beijing, it was gone midnight by the time we arrived in Chengdu. My rucksack did not arrive with us. After the hassle that I’d had at immigration in Beijing, I was beginning to get suspicious. Were these things happening because we were going to Tibet? We would spend the whole of December 24th in the hostel waiting for word of where the bag was. This meant that we missed out on going to see the Giant Buddha in Leshan. Here’s a picture that I didn’t take of it. It’s fair to say that we’ve had better Christmas Eves.

Leshan Giant Buddha
Christmas morning dawned and my rucksack still hadn’t appeared. However, we were both determined to make the most of the day. This was the main reason for our visit to Chengdu. The Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding (or Chengdu Panda Base for short) was set up in 1987 to help combat the sharp decline in panda numbers in the wild. As the name implies, the base has a very successful breeding programme and can share some of the credit for the fact that panda numbers are now increasing again. As the base is located about an hour outside of the city, we organised transport through the hostel and got driven out there with two German girls. Driving out of the city, I felt my spirits plummet. The pollution was horrendous and the outskirts looked indescribably bleak. How on earth could the poor pandas survive if they had to breath this dirty air?
We pulled up at the centre just before 9:00 and made our way in. At this point, our driver spoke to us for the first time. In halting, broken English he pointed at a number on the map and said “Here. Baby. Pandas.” Janey immediately went into some sort of involuntary convulsions. We walked a little way into the park, rounded a corner and there they were! My previously low mood was cured instantaneously. There were about ten pandas prostrated on a platform, munching on vast quantities of bamboo. We stayed there for well over half an hour, mesmerised by how docile and content they were. No wonder pandas are supposedly sexually reticent, they are obviously too busy eating all the time.




Next was the main event of the morning; the baby pandas. The highlight was seeing one little panda continually trying to climb up a tree. He didn’t quite have enough strength in his legs and kept sliding back down and landing on his backside, He would then go back and try again and achieve exactly the same result. At this point, I thought Janey would either combust or enrol on a rapid Sichuanese and zoology course in an attempt to get a job as a keeper.



Later, we encountered the red pandas. These are much less well known than their black and white counterparts. They are also considerably smaller and considerably more aggressive. I particularly enjoyed watching one of them trying to take on a peacock who was trying to steal his food. It’s not the size of the dog in the fight, it’s the size of the fight in the dog. Red pandas presumably know this mantra and live their lives by it.
By late morning the park was getting crowded and it was time to go back to the city. Unfortunately, we then had to spend Christmas Day afternoon shopping for new clothes, as my bag still hadn’t shown up. However, it’s certainly not hyperbole or exaggeration to say that the pandas saved our Christmas that year.

For more information about the Chengdu Panda Base, this is the English version of their website

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How I learned to stop worrying and love Beijing

I don’t think I’ve ever gone to a country with as many mixed feelings as when I travelled to China in December 2015. On the one hand, I wanted to walk on the Great Wall, taste authentic Chinese food, and most of all, I wanted to see pandas. Conversely though, I was nervous about the pollution and I’d heard all the tales of people spitting on the street and supposedly having no manners. Furthermore, at the back of my mind, there was always the nagging dread that I wouldn’t be allowed into the country, as we’d arranged to go to Tibet, with a Tibetan tour agency. Therefore, on the day of our flight from Seoul, I was a bag of nerves. We were going to be in China for three weeks. What if all the horror stories were true? I needn’t have worried. Beijing turned out to be a fantastic city.

China doesn’t really do gentle introductions but our first couple of hours in Beijing were pretty full on. The first problem was at the airport. My passport seemed to set off some sort of check and the border guard and his supervisor spent around ten minutes looking at it and making phone calls. I had my Chinese tourist visa so all I could think of was that they’d realised I was going to Tibet and they’d decided not to let me in for that reason. After what seemed like an eternity though, I was eventually allowed in to the People’s Republic of China. We left the airport and got our first view of the dreaded haze. It was even worse than we had expected. Apparently, that week the pollution had been so bad, there had been a red alert, which is almost unprecedented even in Beijing. Next, we got completely and utterly lost, whilst trying to find our hostel. Eventually we did find a hostel, but it was the wrong one. This was when things started to turn for the better though. A guy who was working at the hostel we’d arrived at went completely out of his way to walk over a mile to the correct hostel with us. He even carried one of Janey’s many bags. When we got there, I offered to buy him a beer to say thank you. He wouldn’t hear of it. He had just wanted to help. It was an incredibly kind gesture and it made us think that the negative reputation that the Chinese have in many other Asian countries isn’t entirely accurate.

After buying dust masks, the next day we set out to explore the city. Our first port of call was the wonderfully named Temple of Heaven. This is located at the centre of a large municipal park. Walking through the park, we saw groups of old ladies doing Tai Chi and a bunch of middle aged people playing a game of keepy-uppies with what looked like a large shuttlecock. Some of them were extremely skilful and none of them seemed remotely bothered by the smog, it was just a fact of life in Beijing. The Temple itself was spectacular and certainly worth a visit.

Later, we visited another spectacular site. The Birds Nest Stadium and the Aquatics Cube were the venues for the athletics and swimming events at the 2008 Summer Olympics. We’d timed our visit to be there when it was dark, as at night both buildings are illuminated. The effect is mesmerising. Finally, we finished off our first full day by exploring some hutongs. These are a type of narrow street or alleyway, where you can find some excellent shops, cafes and restaurants. They were extremely cool and you could spend hours wandering around and getting happily lost in them.

Day three was the highlight of our time in Beijing. We booked a trip from the hostel to go to the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall of China. Everyone has seen the Great Wall on television, and in books but nothing prepares you for actually being there. There are not enough superlatives in English, Chinese or any other language to describe just how awe-inspiring a sight it is. I’ve been to Macchu Picchu, the Taj Mahal and Angkor Wat and the Great Wall was the equal of all of them. We took a cable car to get us up to the wall and then went for a walk. Mutianyu is easily accessible from Beijing but is isn’t the most touristy section of the wall. That “honour” goes to Badaling. Because of this, and the fact that we were there in mid-December, there were surprisingly few other tourists on the wall. Overnight, there had been a light dusting of snow, which made the wall look even more stunning. The only downside was that the smog was still visible, more than 60 kilometres outside the city limits. We walked for around an hour tolerating some steep sections, slippery underfoot conditions and one extremely persistent salesman, until we reached the end of the walkable part of the Mutianyu section. Beyond this, the wall is in a ruined state and it wouldn’t have been safe to have gone any further. Interestingly, at this point a lot of people had tied little red bits of plastic in a tree, presumably as some sort of offering designed to bring good luck. It wasn’t the most environmentally sound offering but it still looked pretty cool. To put the seal on a truly memorable day, when we descended from the wall, we ate one of the best meals we would have in all our time in China.

We’d been to the symbol of China. On Day four, we had to go the centre of the Chinese Universe; Tiananmen Square. For many Westerners, Tiananmen conjures up uncomfortable images of the massacre of innocent civilians in 1989. Not going there though would be like visiting Paris and not going to the Eiffel Tower though. We had to see it. From the moment we emerged from the subway, the high security presence was evident. We had to go through metal detectors to gain access to the square and then once on the square, there were large numbers of troops, ready to accost any potential troublemakers or dissenters. From one end of the square the smiling face of Chairman Mao looks down onto the people below from Tiananmen gate. I’m glad that we went there to see it, but it wasn’t always a comfortable experience. It was a reminder that after more than fifty years of Communism, China is still an extremely repressive place and there is little sign of that changing in the near future.

From Tiananmen, we went to the Forbidden City. For most tourists, this is one of the highlights of their visit to Beijing but I was disappointed. Perhaps, I was still feeling subdued after the police state feeling of Tiananmen but it didn’t really enthral me at all. Yes, the buildings are spectacular, but it was extremely overcrowded and we were often jostled out of the way by domestic tourists, who didn’t want to wait a few seconds longer to get the photo that they wanted. My mood was lifted back up by walking through some really trendy hutongs to get to the Drum Tower. There, we witnessed a powerful and visceral drumming performance. It was certainly one of the more impressive live music performances that I’ve seen on my travels, although an Indonesian Guns N Roses covers band may run it quite close.

After the Drum Show, we had to go back to the hostel and pack our bags for our internal flight to Chengdu. Just like that, our four days in Beijing were over. I was worried when we went there but I had certainly learned to love it. In fact, the highest compliment that I can pay it is that I preferred it to Tokyo or Seoul (not Hong Kong though, no big city in that region beats Hong Kong) and I’m amazed to say it; I’d love to go back again sometime.


We stayed at Beijing Saga International Youth Hostel. I would recommend it very highly. The staff all worked incredibly long hours but were extremely friendly and had great customer service skills. They also spoke impeccable English. Furthermore, there’s a bar which is great for meeting other travellers and it has an English menu, with a mixture of Chinese and Western dishes.

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